EnerGicity LLC, 6650 W. State Street, Unit D301, Milwaukee, WI 53213
414-755-2144 Phone, 414-755-2143 Fax, 888-325-5910 Toll Free
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Serving Milwaukee County, Waukesha County, Ozaukee County, Washington County, Racine County, Kenosha County, including Milwaukee, West Allis, West Milwaukee, Wauwatosa, Shorewood, Whitefish Bay, Fox Point, Bayside, River Hills, Brown Deer, Franklin, Cudahy, South Milwaukee, St. Francis, Butler, Waukesha, Menomonee Falls, New Berlin, Brookfield, Germantown, Sussex, Big Bend, Hales Corners, Greendale, Greenfield, Mequon, Thiensville, Port Washington, West Bend, Jackson, Hartford, Cedarburg, Saukville, Oak Creek, Wind Point, Racine, Sturtevent, Union Grove, Pleasant Prairie, East Troy, Eagle, Dousman, Hartland, Oconomowoc, Muskego, Waterford, Burlington, Delafield, Pewaukee, Slinger, Lannon, Hubertus, Richfield, Rockfield, Grafton, Glendale, Caledonia, Franksville, North Bay, Elmwook Park, Kansasville, Lake Beulah, Honey Creek, Rochester, Mukwanago, North Prairie, Genesee Depot, East Troy, Wales, Okauchee, Nashota, Chenequa, Lac La Belle, Ashippun, Neosho, Rubicon, Allenton, Kewaskum, Waubeka, Fredonia, Random Lake, Belgium, Oostburg, Cedar Grove
Myths (mostly) About Energy Efficiency & Renewables
Myths About Energy Efficiency
Myths About Solar Electric
Myths About Solar Hot Water
Myths About Wind Turbines
MYTH #1: Adding insulation in the attic is the first step to weatherize my home.
Adding insulation without air sealing is a recipe for disaster. When you insulate, you increase the difference in temperature between the attic and the living space. The higher the temperature difference ("Delta T"), the faster the air flow. This is particularly true at the top of a house due to the "stack effect". Just like a hot air balloon, warm air rises in every home and causes pressure upward. This warm, moist air from the living space is constantly finding its way up and into the attic 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year. The faster the air flow, the more damage, such as mold in the attic, and ice damming. In fact, this is the real cause of ice damming. Stop the air flow upward into the attic, and the snow on the roof no longer melts, running down the roof to the eaves where it freezes, creating a dam.
Whenever you insulate, you must air seal. If you insulate a basement wall, you remove the heat from the wall. If no air sealing is done, warm moist air will find its way to the cold wall, the water condenses, and mold growth begins.
MYTH #2: New windows will eliminate drafts.
When it comes to energy-efficient products, window salespeople are among the best in the business. But are they just "giving you the business"? Well, it is true that replacing old, rotted, leaky windows with double or triple pane, Low E, argon-filled windows will reduce your energy bills, there are a few things to consider.
First of all, installation is the key. The best quality windows will leak like a sieve if they're not installed right. Make sure you're dealing with true professionals when it comes to window installation.
Secondly, windows are, by far, the most expensive energy upgrade around. The return on investment from energy savings can run as long as 50 years over regular single pane windows with storms. If your windows are rotted, or just plain ugly, by all means, spend your money on new energy-efficient windows that you will be able to enjoy for years to come. Just don't expect to see your bills drop drastically, as windows usually only represent 10% - 15% of your home's "shell".
Finally, windows are windows. They're pretty much all poor insulators. A tight single pane window with a tight storm window offers an R value of 2 (Actually, windows are measured in "U" values, but it's just the inverse of the R value). Many homeowners replace these with double pane windows, and then remove the storm. After all that expense, the R value is still just 2. Low E, argon-filled might get you closer to R-3, and triple pane windows might be about R-4. In comparison, 2x4 stud walls can be insulated to R-11, and open attics to R-50 or more.
MYTH #3: Energy-efficient furnaces & boilers are the key to reducing my energy bills.
What good is it to invest in a new furnace or boiler when all that heat is escaping from your leaky house? Are they more efficient then your old appliance? Of course, but that just means you'll pay a little less for heating the entire neighborhood! Furthermore if you properly air seal and insulate your home, you may even need a smaller, less costly furnace or boiler to begin with.
The worst thing you could do would be to install a new furnace or boiler, and then air seal and insulate later on. Why? Because the HVAC contractor will size your heating system to meet the demands of your leaky home. Then when you insulate and air seal, the furnace or boiler will be over-sized, leading to "short cycling", when the appliance turns on and off too quickly to get to it's most efficient "steady state. It takes at least 8 minutes for a high efficiency furnace or boiler to reach steady state, so it it's turning off after 6 minutes, you just paid for a 90%+ efficient appliance that only attains 80% efficiency or so. Furthermore, all that short cycling drastically reduces the operational life span of the appliance.
MYTH #4: On-demand water heaters are the best choice for domestic hot water.
Don't get me wrong, on-demand ("Tankless") water heaters are terrific. But they are expensive, and different households may or may not get a good return on their investment, depending upon usage. If you use a lot of hot water throughout the day, it's not so bad to always have a hot water tank ready to go. Furthermore, if you might use a lot of hot water at the same time, for washing, bathing, rinsing dishes, etc, be aware that an on-demand system can only heat so much water at a time. The greater the simultaneous usage, the larger and more costly the system.
If your household only uses hot water sparingly, and only a bit at a time, an on-demand system might be for you. But most homeowners are usually surprised when they see how little they actually pay for heating water, as compared to space heating. $150-$200 annually would be about average for a family of four. On-demand water heaters cost upwards of $3,000. Condensing water heaters cost much less, and approach the efficiency of on-demand units. Do the math.
MYTH #5: Radiant floor heating saves energy.
In-floor radiant systems do not save energy. They are merely another way of delivering heat from the same boiler. The efficiency of the boiler is was counts, as well as how well the radiant heat floor is insulated (assuming it's on-slab). They say that heat rises. Actually, heated air rises, but radiant heat goes to cold, regardless of the direction. A poorly insulated under-slab radiant heating system will suck all that heat right into the ground. R-10 foam board insulation or more is highly recommended under, and all around an on-slab radiant heating system to prevent heat loss. If a 1" square is exposed, that's where the heat will go. Radiant heat goes to cold, always. You've got to block it in all directions except where you want it to go.
MYTH #6: Radiant floor heating will keep my feet warm.
If the radiant heat flooring is keeping your feet warm, chances are you're sweating. Most radiant floors have tubing under the entire floor. As soon as all than warmth heats the space to the desired temperature, it turns off. The floor should be about the same temperature as the room. As a result, your feet won't feel warm. The only way to accomplish that would be to run the tubing under the floor only in certain places in a more concentrated fashion - where you normally place your feet. That smaller area will remain on for longer periods, and will thus feel warm, just like a radiator.
MYTH #7: Buying an ENERGY STAR refrigerator will save on electric.
Well, yes, but only if you throw out the old one! Re-using it as the beer fridge is cheating. That's why rebate programs for new ENERGY STAR refrigerators require you to dispose of the old one. The worst thing you could do is put the old refrigerator in the garage. In the summer it runs non-stop to counter the 90 degree heat, and in the winter, well, who needs to cool things in the garage in winter?
Also, it pays to remember that not all ENERGY STAR appliances are equal. Some use less energy than standard appliances, while others use MUCH less. Do you homework, and find out what the real operating costs are before you spend your hard-earned money.
MYTH #8: ENERGY STAR dehumidifiers are the best way to keep my basement dry.
If you need to use a dehumidifier, make sure it's an ENERGY STAR model. Dehumidifiers, like air conditioners and refrigerators, use compressors to extract moisture from the air. Compressors are energy hogs. Running a dehumidifier can add as much as $25 or so to your monthly bill.
It's much better to extract excess moisture from your home with ENERGY STAR continuous-use exhaust fans, which costs a lot less to operate than a dehumidifier. As a matter of fact, these types of fans are routinely recommended if you're going to air seal your home. Leaky homes might let in humidity from the outside, but tight homes need exhaust fans to remove all the moisture created by cooking, combustion appliances, people and pets. Continuous use exhaust fans will go a long way toward reducing the humidity in your home to more acceptable levels, meaning you'll use your dehumidifier a lot less. You could even control the fan with a dehumidistat, so it only operates when it needs to.
The latest discovery it that homes with radon extraction systems have VERY dry basements. This is because a continuous use fan is used to exhaust air from under the foundation to the exterior. These fans do not have to be very strong, they just need to create a bit of negative pressure under the slab as compared to above it. Not only are these basements much dryer, they are also much warmer. The reason being that concrete foundations are always a bit moist from the earth (concrete absorbs water), and that moisture is always evaporating. This evaporation makes it cold. That's how air conditioners work. Take away the moisture, take away the cold! And get a radon extraction system for free!
MYTH #9: Gas ovens cost less to operate than electric ovens.
Well, yes, but only if you cook a lot. Studies have shown that it's a wash unless it's heavily used. The same is true for gas dryers.
MYTH #10: Sealing a home too tight causes poor indoor air quality.
OK, you got me. Air sealing a home does degrade indoor air quality. That's why it is always recommended to install continuous use ENERGY STAR exhaust fans to maintain indoor air quality. Studies have shown that you can't seal up a home too tight, you just need the proper amount of ventilation. As a matter of fact, we can calculate exactly how much ventilation you need for your home, and these fans can be calibrated to give you just the right amount.
MYTH #11: Electric eave heaters will eliminate ice damming.
Well, actually they do, but two things here:
First, they're very expensive to operate. Using electricity to melt ice outside in the winter is about the least efficient thing you could imagine. And you don't need electric eave heaters to eliminate ice damming. All you need to do is air seal your attic floor.
Secondly, although it is not well-known, ice damming is caused by warm air escaping upward into your attic from the living space. Not only does this represent tremendous heat loss, but this warm air is usually moist as well, and that's what causes mold in attics. Even worse, this warm air heats the roof to the point where the bottom film of snow melts, and runs down the roof until it hits the eave. Since there's no heat under the eave, this is were it freezes, and eventually builds to create dams. More water melts, and then pools at the dam. If there's enough water it will rise above the ice shielding, and start running into the house causing all sorts of damage.
Ice damming is easy to predict. Icicles are one red flag, and uneven snow melt on the roof is another. If you have either of these conditions, you can bet you are loosing heat through the attic floor, high humidity is damaging the materials in the attic, and ice damming may occur, possibly ruining your roof shingles.
Another way to check if you have this condition is by looking at the upper part of the chimney and the surrounding rafters in your attic. It's likely that you will see water damage here. While most people automatically think this is due to the roof leaking around the chimney, it's much more likely that warm air is rising up the chimney chase, all the way from the basement, into the attic. This warm moist air hits the rafters and condenses, causing the damage.
A certified energy auditor uses a blower door fan and a thermal imaging camera to find exactly where these leaks are, and recommends economical ways to seal them. A roofer, for the most part, will only try to sell you a new roof.
MYTH #12: Electric space heaters is the most expensive way to heat my home office.
While it's true that using electricity is the most expensive and least efficient way to heat a space, if you have a home office, using a space heater just for that area will enable you to turn down the thermostat for the rest of the house. This alone will save you a ton. Set back your (digital) thermostat to 58 degrees, or even 55 degrees (if you have no pets) when you're gone (or in your office) for 4 hours or more. Less than 4 hours and there's no savings due to the extra power needed to heat things back up.
You may have to set your thermostat so it starts warming up well before you get home, but you can play with it and see for yourself how much lead time it needs.
Don't turn down your heat too much though. During very cold periods, 55 degrees at the thermostat, in the center on the home, means that it may be approaching freezing towards the outside walls, and there is a danger of water pipes bursting. It's ok to spend money on energy to keep the water pipes from busting! Also, much lower that 55 degrees and you may start noticing seams starting to split in wood. And don't freeze your dog! I'm just sayin'. That's what I'm here for.
Myth #14: Solar electric doesn't work in northern climates.
While it's true that climates like the desert southwest get a whole lot more sun than Wisconsin, what you may not know is that the cooler the solar electric panel, the more efficient it is, sometimes twice as much or even more! So get that particular idea out of your head right now. We have an average of about 4.5 hours a day of full sun in southern Wisconsin. If a solar electric panel has a good "solar window" with little shading from 9 am to 3 pm, chances are very good your system will produce enough electricity to make it worthwhile. A solar electric panel will produce that greatest possible voltage when it faces the sunrise in Barrow Alaska at 50 degrees below zero.
MYTH #15: Solar energy systems don't offer good payback.
You may never get your money back on poorly designed or improperly installed renewable energy systems. However, using certified professionals helps insure these systems operate as promised. With all the incentives available from local municipalities, utilities, state rebate programs and federal tax incentives, there has never been a better time to invest in renewable energy systems. While some technologies do offer payback periods of over 15 years, others may be as little as 3-5 years. Additionally, "payback" may not be the right question to ask. It is more enlightening to consider these three factors:
1. After the "payback" period, you'll be getting your energy FOR FREE for many years to come. Most solar panels are guaranteed for 25 years, and will probably last quite a bit longer than that. Since they only loose about 0.5% efficiency annually, after 20 years it will still be working at 90% efficiency!
2. The value of your home will increase because its operating costs will go down, and your property taxes won't be affected.
3. If you believe that the price of energy will increase in the future, then your pay-back period will be shorter. (The way things are looking, maybe MUCH shorter!)
What is the payback period for your car? Your computer? Your plasma TV? Renewable energy systems will reduce or eliminate your utility bills, help clean our environment, and reduce our dependence on foreign oil. How much is that worth to you?
MYTH #16: Solar panels must be mounted on rooftops.
The advantages of mounting solar panels on rooftops include solar access (the higher the better to reduce shading), and space utilization (if there's no other place to put them). However, solar panels can also be hung on exterior walls (like awnings), or better yet, ground-mounted. Ground-mounted systems do not require making holes in the roof, are easier to maintain, can by adjusted through tilting them in the spring and fall maximize efficiency, and may be more aesthetically pleasing than roof-mounted systems.
MYTH #13: Incandescent light bulbs are inefficient.
Actually, in the winter time they're 100% efficient because they help heat the house. OK, I apologize, it was a trick question. In reality, using electricity is the most expensive way to heat a space. And when you take into account waste heat generated at the power plant (up to 60%) and the line losses of electricity before it even makes it to your home (up to another 10%), it's also the least efficient in the end. Finally, most electricity is generated by burning coal, which is one of the dirtiest way to produce energy.
CFLs and LEDs use 6-8 times less energy to produce the same amount of light. After 2013 it will be illegal to sell incandescent light bulbs in the United States.
MYTH #17: My solar panels might be shaded by future construction or new tree growth.
Federal law states that once a solar system is installed no other property owner (with the exception of the government itself) can block your solar access with new trees or new construction. However, a part of the solar site assessment process includes estimating how tall existing trees may grow to calculate whether they will shade the array in the future.
MYTH #19: Solar panels will feed electricity to my home during a blackout.
Sorry, but "grid-tied" systems are installed in such a way as to shut down during a blackout. The reason is simple. Utility crews working on downed power lines don't want to be electrocuted by private, grid-tied solar electric systems.
MYTH #18: I need a battery backup system for my solar array.
Most solar arrays are "grid-tied" systems. In other words, they're interconnected to the electric grid, so when the sun's not out the electricity comes from the utility, and when the solar array is producing more power than you're using it feeds electricity back to the grid. Since Wisconsin is a "Net-Metered" state, i.e. the utility is required to pay for the electricity you provide to them at the same rate as they sell it to you, the utility is essentially acting as a free battery.
Battery backup systems add significant cost and complexity to a solar system, and they require regular monthly maintenance. Battery systems emit toxic gases, and if not maintained properly, they can actually blow up. In other words, it's not something you do unless you absolutely have to.
The only solar systems that need battery backup are mission-critical systems, like a kidney dialysis machine (no, not the beer fridge!), or off-grid systems.
MYTH #20: Roof-mounted solar panels are ugly.
They say that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Some people think that solar panels are ugly, while others think they are magnificent. In truth, most people agree that solar panels look better if they're flush to the roof. Indeed, manufacturers have designed solar panels which are integrated into the roof, much like skylights. There are even solar tiles which actually replace roofing shingles.
MYTH #21: Solar panels must face south.
In the northern hemisphere, facing solar panels South will provide for the greatest efficiency. However, facing panels due East or West will degrade the efficiency by only 23%, and Southeast or Southwest by only 6%. Just because your roof line does not allow for Southern-facing panels does not mean it can't work for you. However, only a certified Solar Site Assessor can give you an accurate projection of your home's solar potential.
MYTH #22: Solar panels should be tilted at latitude (42 degrees in southeast Wisconsin).
You'd think this would be the case, given that 42 degrees would be the average over the seasons. However, different climates offer opportunities to squeeze more power overall out of your solar system by tilting at a different pitch than latitude. In Wisconsin our winter days are not only much shorter, they're also more cloudy. That means that the bulk of the solar resource here is over the summer. Tilting the array 8 degrees less, at 34 degrees, will maximize the annual power production. That's convenient, since many roofs are pitched close to that angle.
MYTH #24: Solar hot water doesn't work in cold climates.
Are you kidding? They work like gangbusters! Solar hot water panels are made of black metal, which soaks up the heat of the sun in a big way. Furthermore, they are encased within an insulated box with a tempered glass cover, which traps heat. Even on the coldest day of the year solar hot water panels will produce most of your hot water if you have a good "solar window" between 10:00 am and 2:00 pm.
Myth #23: A single phone line casting a thin shadow over the solar array won't affect output.
Actually, this barely visible shadow can potentially bring production down to zero. Solar electric panels generally have two separate circuits running up and down on each of the long sides. This thin shadow running across both circuits creates a break, halting all power. A proper solar site assessment will avoid these problems.
The reason why there are two separate circuits within each panel is if one side is shaded, the other side will continue to produce power unabated. There are, however, panels with "micro-inverters", which will continue to work even when the panel next to it is shaded.
MYTH #25: Solar hot water systems will freeze when it gets below 32 degrees.
Certain types of solar hot water systems can freeze up and be damaged, but these systems are only recommended for southern climates, or summer-only systems such as summer cottages or outdoor pools. Domestic solar hot water systems in Wisconsin are either pressurized with an anti-freeze (glycol is used, which is a common food additive) and use a heat exchanger, or drain-back systems which automatically drains down whenever circulation stops. These systems cut off circulation whenever the storage tank is warmer than the array, and the pump can even be powered by a solar electric panel which, conveniently, only provides power when the sun is out.
MYTH #26: Solar hot water systems have very low payback.
Actually, solar hot water systems can offer some of the fastest payback of any other renewable system, generally less than 10 years. If that still sounds too long to you, just consider what your rate of return would be if you invested that money in CDs or the stock market instead.
MYTH #27: Solar hot water systems are only used to heat water.
While this may be true in most residential applications, solar hot water systems, (or more accurately called "solar thermal" systems), can also be used to heat spaces, either through heat exchangers for forced air heating, or in-floor radiant systems.
MYTH #28: Wind turbines kill birds.
Studies have shown that wind turbines do not kill birds in any significant numbers, and no more than very clean windows. If you love birds, don't clean your windows.
MYTH #29: Wind turbines offer no return on investment.
It's no secret that wind turbines, like all renewable energy systems, are usually very expensive. Sometimes it makes sense, and sometimes it doesn't. It all depends on the site. A proper wind power site assessment will determine the approximate cost of the system, as well as the payback, so you can decide for yourself whether it's worth it before you move forward.
In the end, every renewable energy system must be thought of as paying today for your energy needs of tomorrow. It's a hedge against energy inflation. Of course, that's just the financial analysis, and doesn't take into account other, non-financial reasons for investing in renewable energy, such as the environment, breaking our addiction to foreign sources of energy, or the simple joy of having the utility company pay you money, instead of the other way around.
MYTH #30: Wind turbines can be mounted on the roof.
A vertical axis wind turbine generally should not be mounted on ANY building, rather, it should be free-standing. This is due to vibration issues which, over time, will damage the building. It's like turning the building into a cheap guitar.
While there are horizontal axis wind turbines that do not create the same vibration, these systems are not yet proven. If you want to experiment, feel free. But if you want to make reasonably sure your investment is going to pay off, hire a certified wind site assessor before you spend the big bucks.
MYTH #31: Wind turbines are too loud.
There have been complaints from people who live near utility-sized wind farms about the annoying sound. However, this is a technical problem which is being solved through blade design. Significant improvements have already been made, and small residential wind turbines can run very quietly.
MYTH #32: Wind turbines work well in an urban environment.
While it's possible, wind turbines depend on the smooth flow of air to work best. Turbulence will cut short their useful life, and require more maintenance, and tall buildings create turbulent conditions.
Wind turbines work best in relatively open areas, and should be placed at a minimum height of 30' PLUS one blade length above any structure or tree nearby. The higher, the better, as wind speeds pick up and smooth out with altitude. If we could somehow put wind turbines in the jet stream, we would need no other energy source.
This is why wind farms are being designed for operation off the coastline. The water is flat, and the wind is smooth. Some people say it would ruin the view, but others think that this source of clean, renewable energy is a thing of beauty.
MYTH #33: Geothermal systems depend on the heat from the earth.
OK, it's confusing. True geothermal systems tap the heat of the earth from deep down. These are utility-sized systems that are place in areas where there is volcanic activity, and it's really, REALLY hot not so far under ground.
Geothermal systems for residential and commercial use are more properly termed "Ground Source Heat Pumps". Yeah, it's a rotten name, so the term "geothermal" stuck.
A ground source heat pump uses the near constant temperature just 8 to 10 feet underground as a source of heat (OR cold), and then uses a compressor to bump up the temperature enough to heat your home. Think of it as an air conditioner. The a/c starts with hot air from the outside, and a compressor compresses and decompresses a refrigerant to add or extract heat by turning it from vapor to liquid, or vice-versa. This is how your refrigerator works as well.
While the a/c and refrigerator work in only one direction, a "heat pump" can be reversed to provide either cooling or heating. Some air conditioners act as heat pumps, cooling your home in summer, and warming in winter. However, this warming generally quits when it's +20 F or less outside, and you need a back-up boiler or furnace. This kind of system can still be highly cost-effective. This is called an "Air Source Heat Pump".
A ground source heat pump, on the other hand, starts with much cooler temperatures in the summer, and much warmer temperatures in the winter, because it's coming from underground. As such, these systems can be 4-5 times more efficient than an air conditioner or furnace.
MYTH #34: A geothermal system will reduce my electric bill.
Actually, a ground source heat pump will increase your electric bill, because it takes electricity to run the pump. However, a properly-sized system should reduce your heating and air conditioning costs by at least 40%, and you will still save a lot of money even with the additional electric usage. The key here is the backup heating system.
Ground source heat pumps are generally sized to give you enough heat for all but the coldest days. Any larger and the costs override the benefits. This means that you'll need some kind of backup systems, like a furnace, boiler, or hearth-type fireplace. Unfortunately, some installers will try to sell you a system with an electric backup, which can be very expensive to operate, and make the entire system uneconomical.
This added dependence on electric, if only just for running the pump, is why die-hard tree huggers don't like geothermal systems. However, they can be designed to work very well, and save a ton of money. And if you power them with solar electric panels, well, you've got nothing to be ashamed of.
MYTH #35: Geothermal systems require expensive drilling to work right.
Horizontal loop fields for geothermal systems are less expensive that drilled vertical bore holes, and can be just as efficient. However, horizontal systems require a large amount of land, usually an acre or so. The trench for a 5 ton system (typical for a 1,500 - 2,000 square foot home) might be 80' to 250' long (depending on the configuration - "slinky" or "racetrack"). However, the trench doesn't have to be straight. Tree removal may be necessary.
On the other hand, the cost of drilling vertical bore holes is coming down, and newer rigs can drill at an angle, and even change angles part-way down. Vertical bore systems means ground source heat pumps can be installed in even very small lots.
MYTH #36: Geothermal systems can't heat water.
Ground source heat pumps where originally designed only to heat. However, systems were soon designed to simply reverse their flow to also provide air conditioning. While these systems normally shut down during the "shoulder seasons" when no heating or air conditioning is needed (spring & fall), newer systems now offer what's called a "desuperheater", which can be used to heat water year around.
MYTH #37: Geothermal systems offer no payback.
It's no secret that geothermal systems, like all renewable energy systems, are usually very expensive to install. Sometimes it makes sense, and sometimes it doesn't. It all depends on the site. A proper geothermal site assessment will determine the approximate cost of the system, as well as the payback, so you can decide for yourself whether it's worth it before you move forward.
In the end, every renewable energy system must be thought of as paying today for your energy needs of tomorrow. It's a hedge against energy inflation. Of course, that's just the financial analysis, and doesn't take into account other, non-financial reasons for investing in renewable energy, such as the environment, breaking our addiction to foreign sources of energy, or the simple joy of not having to pay the utility company such a big chunk of your take-home pay every month.
Geothermal systems are unique in the renewable energy field for two reasons, which improve payback. First of all, they can cover up to 95% of your heating needs, and 100% of your cooling and hot water needs. No other renewable energy system can do that.
Furthermore, the horizontal loop field of vertical bore holes last, for all practical purposes, forever. This asset will continue to add value to your property 50 years from now, even if the mechanical appliance component of the system is no longer operating. This fact significantly improves the financial viability of geothermal.
Call us at 414-755-2144 today to schedule an audit!